I last visited Italy in the summer and of course thoroughly enjoyed it but heard from several Italian friends that it is not to be missed in the winter months during the holidays. They suggested that I would discover a very different perspective with a more intimate look at fair Italia when they wind down from the summer tourist mayhem and settle back to enjoy the Christmas, New Year and Epiphany celebrations.  My friends were spot on in their assessment and in sharp contrast to my previous visit, I found relatively few other tourists, no lines whatsoever (even at the Uffizi!), significantly lower prices and the opportunity to really mix with the locals which was priceless. I traveled from Rome to Tuscany to the Amalfi Coast from December through January and found it even more breathtaking with warm red candles glowing in windows, twinkling lights canopying cobblestone streets and the relaxed and joyous spirit of the Italians who truly know how to celebrate food, family and festivities of the holidays.  In my subsequent notes, you will find my take on the places I visited, customs I witnessed, sights I explored, fashions I saw, music I heard, food I tasted and people I met.  I will make recommendations based on these experiences which I hope will inspire you to visit this amazing country and also provide some assistance in planning your future Italian itinerary.