At first Rome seems an overwhelming city to tackle as it is busy and bustling and boasts a tremendous amount of historical sights which can cause one to wonder how it’s possible to get to all of them. Best dispose of that worry right from the start because Italy is best when it is savored. Rome has managed to be there for a very long time and we certainly hope and expect it will remain so. Depending on the amount of time you have, choose your spots to visit and allow time to leisurely enjoy the city’s magnificent offerings. Many of the popular sights such as the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona and the Pantheon are all in fairly close proximity and excellent signage clearly points the way to each one.
On this visit to the Eternal City, I decided to stay outside of the inner city bustle and chose the tranquil sanctuary of the Hotel Santa Maria in the quintessentially Roman neighborhood of Trastevere (pronounced Trast-EH-veray). The Hotel Santa Maria is housed in a 16th century cloister and was recently renovated in 2000. It has a European three-star rating which I think it is justly rated. The rooms are good sized with fairly comfortable beds and well-appointed bathrooms. The staff said there were hairdryers in the rooms and while that was true, the hairdryers looked like vacuum cleaner attachments and had about as much horsepower as Barbie’s pink corvette convertible. Needless to say, that poor appliance couldn’t even dream of endeavoring to dry my very long and unruly hair. Additionally, while the beautiful church at Santa Maria is lovely indeed, its old bells tend to “ding dong” throughout the night which can lead to restless nights even for the most fitful of sleepers. Your room rate includes a delicious buffet breakfast with sumptuous delectables for any palate served in the bright and sunny dining room where they also have a computer if you wish to check your email.
Trastevere means literally “beyond the Tiber,” the famous river that runs through Rome. It has an eclectic and quirky vibe that reminded me a bit of Soho in NYC and particularly in the inner neighborhood section, most everyone has a ready smile followed by a friendly “Bonjourno!”
I always make a stop at the Forum in ancient Rome, however I had not previously spent much time on the Palantine hill – one of the seven hills of Rome. This is where the mythical she-wolf nursed Romulus and Remus before Romulus killed his brother and founded Rome in 753 BC. The Palantine was the neighborhood of the nobility and strolling along the perfectly manicured, bright green grassy carpet accented with perfectly shaped plush bushes and stately Roman pines, one can see the attraction of this breathtaking landscape for the Roman leaders. It always strikes me how throughout Italy the vegetation seems to grow pre-manicured which would be a dream for many American homeowners. When visiting the Palantine, there are many fabulous sights including the ruins of the Domus Augustana, the emperor's private residence and the House of Augustus which still features frescoes on the walls enjoyed by its former owner and his family.
A fascinating sight which I missed on my previous trip was a stop at the Basilica San Clemente which provides an impressive look at the running water that the ancient’s enjoyed as well as the excavations still underway. My excellent guide Francesca (Francesca Caruso: francescainroma@gmail.com) explained that Rome has developed like a birthday cake with layer built on top of layer and so on. The Basilica San Clemente is a perfect example as the current Basilica sits on top of a fourth-century basilica which sits on top of a first-century building. One can only wonder how many priceless treasures lie undiscovered beneath the cobblestones on which you are walking.
Some Roman friends recommended viewing the monuments at night, which I would certainly think twice before doing back in LA, but even walking alone I felt quite safe and I saw instantly what they meant. The city takes on a different character when the skies overhead are cloaked in darkness and one’s perception focuses on the immediate surrounding activity. Walking along the narrow winding streets, the ancient mystique of the city felt even more palpable. Even before I reached the Panethon, I heard the soulful sounds of classical cello echoing across the stones accompanied by the water gushing in the fountain and the low hum of voices. While obviously impressive by day, the Pantheon looked otherworldly lit from strategic angles at night and coupled with the beautiful music (that was not played during the day), it provided an entirely different experience. The vibrancy of the city and impact of the sights are significantly heightened at night and I highly recommend adding the “night” trek to your Roman adventure.
While the Vatican is a frequent stop for most on their trip to Rome, not many are aware that you can request a general audience with the Pope if you are so inclined. Although not a Roman Catholic, I requested said audience and it proved to be a most interesting experience. You must make your request as far in advance as you possibly can (visit www.vatican.va/various/prefettura/index_en.html for details). I received my official letter from the Vatican on absolutely gorgeous stationery saying that I had a spot and detailed the time and place as well as where I was to retrieve my tickets. While you aren’t close enough to get a really good look at the Pope’s famous red Prada shoes, you do seem him in his snazzy popemobile and gain a little peek into the doings of the Holy See. I also recommend a guided tour of the Vatican – last time I walked through by myself which was fabulous, but for the inside information and details on exactly what you are seeing, the resident seminarians are unparalleled. My seminarian happened to be from Ann Arbor and provided a fun and highly insightful tour.
Before leaving Rome, I will insert something here that I will no doubt refer to many times to come, and that is the relatively few tourists traveling in the winter. The last time I visited the Sistine Chapel in the summer, I felt like I was being squeezed into sausage casing it was so tightly packed with people and I hardly had sufficient time to see anything properly. This time, there were essentially no other visitors, and I had the luxury of taking as long as I pleased. Mark my words, unless I win an insane amount in the lottery and can afford private showings and the sky-high summer prices or marry a Duke with an insane inheritance and private access to everything (hoping for the latter), I will be hard pressed to return to Europe in the summer again!
I must also insert the first of many entries on the famous “coat” of Italy. My first sighting of said coat took place in Rome - it is best described as a very poofy coat sewn in tire-like horizontal stitching providing an exceedingly less than flattering silhouette. It usually comes in a high-gloss black, although they can shake it up with in a copper shade, purple or even white which unfortunately ends up looking much like the Michelin man. They may have fur around the collar and vary in length either at the waist, thigh or to the knee. I comment on this coat because if I didn’t know better, I would think it was a federal mandate that all Italians must wear it. Honestly - EVERYONE – man, woman, child and dog owns at least one of these coats and since fashion often comes from Italy…………look for moon boot coats coming soon to a store near you.
